How Much Down You Really Need
The “20% down” rule is a myth for most buyers. Here is what each program actually requires, what 20% really changes, and where the money can come from.
20% is optional, not required
Most people delay buying for years to reach 20% — a number almost no first-time program actually asks for.
The real minimums are far lower. 20% is not a gate to entry; it is one option that changes your monthly cost. Know the difference and you can often buy sooner.
What each program actually asks
- VA & USDA — 0% down. Veterans and active duty (VA); eligible areas with income limits (USDA). No down payment.
- Conventional — 3% to 5%. First-time buyers can start at 3%; 5% is the standard floor otherwise.
- FHA — 3.5% down. Forgiving on credit. On a $350,000 home that is $12,250.
- Jumbo — usually 10–20%. Larger loans above conforming limits ask for more down, but not always the full 20%.
What the 20% mark changes
Putting 20% down is not about being “allowed” to buy — it is about three concrete benefits:
- No PMI. At 20% down on a conventional loan, you skip private mortgage insurance entirely.
- Lower payment. A smaller loan means a lower monthly principal and interest — for the whole term.
- Stronger offer. More money down can make your offer more competitive in a tight market.
None of these are required to buy. They are trade-offs — more cash now for less cost later. The right balance is personal.
PMI is not a penalty
Private mortgage insurance is what lets you put less than 20% down. It is a cost — but a manageable, often temporary one.
- Roughly 0.3–1.5% a year. Added to your payment. The stronger your credit and down payment, the lower it runs.
- It falls off — conventional. Conventional PMI cancels as you reach about 20% equity (automatically at 22%).
- FHA works differently. FHA mortgage insurance often stays for the life of the loan unless you refinance out.
- It buys you time in. A few years of PMI can beat years of rising rent and prices while you save.
The money need not be all yours
- Your own savings. Cleanest when the funds have been in your account for about 60 days.
- A gift from family. Allowed on every low-down program with a simple gift letter.
- Down payment assistance. State, county and city programs — grants and second loans toward the down payment.
- Retirement accounts. A 401(k) loan or IRA withdrawal can fund part or all of it.
The one rule: no unexplained money. Move any gift or transfer before you apply and keep the paper trail clean.
Finding your right down payment
- Start with the minimum. See what your program actually requires — often far less than you assumed.
- Weigh PMI vs. cash. Decide whether a few years of PMI is worth buying now instead of waiting.
- Keep a reserve. Do not drain every dollar into the down payment; lenders want a cushion left.
- Count help you can use. Gifts and assistance can lower your out-of-pocket without lowering your down payment.
- Run the real numbers. We model a few scenarios side by side so you choose with the full picture.
There is no single right answer — only the one that fits your cash, your timeline and your monthly comfort.
How much should you put down?
Tell me your rough price range and what you have available — I will show the real minimum, the PMI trade-off and a few scenarios.
General information — not a commitment to lend and not legal or tax advice. Minimums and PMI vary by lender and situation. Just My Loans, LLC · NMLS #2569569.
Company NMLS #2569569 · Licensed in Florida, Texas, South Carolina & Pennsylvania
About Julia · Updated: 10/10/2026